Your Sussex Wedding - October/November 2019 (Issue 81)

A sk a group of people what their ultimate honeymoon setting would be, and many would say the Maldives. The white sandy beaches, Insta-worthy sparkling crystal waters and total relaxation at its core means you’d be hard-pressed to find somewhere better to celebrate the start of your married life. Flying to Coco Palm Dhuni Kolhu by seaplane, you can’t help but be mesmerised by the azure lagoons and chains of atolls sprinkled below. Landing in the beautiful southern waters of Baa Atoll, you’re entering an ecosystem so incredible its been named as a UNESCO biosphere reserve. It felt so far removed from the grey drizzle I left behind in England that it could’ve been another planet. There have been concerns in recent years over the impact tourism has on this paradise in the Indian Ocean, but at Coco Palm Dhuni Kolhu, it’s a completely different story. Being eco-friendly is not only important here – it’s integral to its way of life. “Protecting the natural wildlife of the Maldives has been central to the island’s philosophy since day one,” marketing and sales manager Sarah Hilmy told me over dinner one night. “Twenty years ago, when it was founded – long before the popularity of eco-tourism – Coco Palm Dhuni Kolhu pioneered conservation and sustainability efforts.” On the first evening we head out on a sunset cruise aboard a dhoni – a traditional fishing boat. Lazing on the sundeck, glass of fizz in hand, watching the last of the day’s rays dip below the horizon, I realise I could get used to this. RELAX First things first: kick off your shoes as soon as you arrive – I promise you won’t need them! Arriving on the island is a slightly surreal feeling, as you’re stepping into picture-postcard bliss. Wide sandy beaches give way to a canopy of lush green vegetation, dotted with rustic huts interlinked by sandy pathways and a vast indoor-outdoor reception. Dreaming of those classic Maldives images of the rooms on stilts over the twinkling ocean? Yep, they’ve got those here too. My oceanfront villa is set back from the main path. The rustic, thatched exterior is deceiving, as you enter to find a huge space dominated by a four-poster bed. Open the back door to find an open-air bathroom (don’t worry – you’re totally hidden). This took a little getting used to, but the more I relaxed and got in tune with island life, the more I let my highly strung English ways go, and I totally embraced my al fresco shower. Located at the front of the villa was a plunge pool, with the beach and ocean beyond – my own little utopia. I’m given a backstage tour – as if I weren’t already sold on the resort’s green credentials, I get to see firsthand how it generates its own electricity, creates every item on the island from reclaimed wood and produces its own water in reusable glass bottles. Sarah tells me, “These efforts are specifically aimed at minimising the impact of development while also adopting policies of conservative energy generation, water production, recycling, environmentally friendly rubbish disposal and protection of the natural flora, fauna and marine life of the island.” Something that made my heart sing was the resort’s Marine Turtle Rescue Centre. Over the course of my week here, I checked in on my pals and watched them take tentative steps (well, strokes) to return to the ocean as they were nursed back to health by the dedicated staff. EXPERIENCE This tiny island packs a punch when it comes to the experiences it has on offer. Even the simplest activity of grabbing a snorkel and flippers turns into an epic adventure, with turtles, reef sharks and a whole rainbow of pretty fish calling the nearby reef home. One day, our guide takes us out into the ocean so we can no longer see the land in any direction. We plop into the warm water, and it isn’t long before a manta ray comes to check us out. Maybe I was naive, but I had no idea how huge these creatures were. Ghostly and majestic, it glides and circles around us, with its huge mouth gaping wide to collect plankton. Back on the dhoni, I feel like I’m on an emotional rollercoaster, as a group of spinner dolphins join us for the ride home. I lose count at 20, and we watch in awe as they leap and dance and revel in the squeals of delight from their audience on the boat. It’s almost impossible to imagine real Maldivian life, so a visit to the local island of Thulhaadhoo is a must. We arrive by speedboat and spend a morning wandering the quiet streets lined with shops, little cafes, a mosque and walls adorned with images of local politicians. We visit a boat-building yard before hitting upon the opposite shore, where a group of local lads are preparing for a PARADISE FOUND Hannah Faulder discovers an authentic taste of the Maldives at Coco Palm Dhuni Kolhu 126