MICHELIN-STAR PERFECTION Editor Kelly Andrews recently got the exciting chance to visit Michelin-star restaurant, The Pass, located at South Lodge in Horsham. Read on as Kelly explains why it’s a must-visit if you’re celebrating your engagement or for the ultimate date-night treat. It’s been a long-held dream of mine to dine at a Michelin-star establishment, so when I was invited to The Pass with chef Ben Wilkinson at the helm, I leapt at the chance. I’d heard that Ben’s seasonal menu was full of delectable flavours, earning the restaurant not only that coveted Michelin star but also four AA Rosettes – my mouth was already watering at the prospect of the seven course tasting menu! The intimate dining area puts you right at the heart of the action. We were shown to our table neighbouring one of the glass walls that gave us a direct view of Ben and his culinary team as they cooked up a storm. As a huge fan of BBC’s Great British Menu, I was in my element and felt as though I was living my own episode. Admittedly, mum didn’t get much scintillating conversation out of me as I was too mesmerised by what was going on in the kitchen! Fascinated, I watched one of the team prepare our hors d’oeuvre and then bring them out to the table to explain what each one was. As mum has a scallop allergy her dietary requirements were discussed when we took our seats and each ingredient carefully checked with her. Her mini morsels and starter were then attentively crafted especially for her. This unprecedented care was greatly appreciated. Each mouthful was a delight and excitingly heralded the remainder of the menu to come. Starter for me was a zingingly fresh tomato, scallop, green olive, garden herb and Mylor prawn dish. The menu is inspired by the local produce picked daily from South Lodge’s walled garden, nowhere was this more evident. For someone usually repulsed by tomatoes, the fact that I not only ate it, but enjoyed it and can list the tomato granité amongst my highlights, is quite the testimonial! The first wine pairing, served by the sommelier, was a Corsican white to complement the freshness of the fish. When the second course was delivered by the man himself, Ben Wilkinson, I must confess to being a little star struck! After all, chefs are among my personal heroes. This was celeriac, beef fillet, smoked emulsion, royale, beef cheek, hen of the woods and, a must for any fine-dining course, decadent truffle. The earthy, rich flavours made this my favourite course. Served with treacle bread and an elegant little glass of beef broth, the beef fillet was a tartar bite atop a slice of toasted sourdough. Meanwhile, the crispy celeriac brought a further textural joy. Simply amazing! This was paired with a delightful, super-light red wine: Mercurey Permier Cru, Clos des Barraults. The fish course of day boat turbot with a local Ridgeview sparkling white wine sauce (paired with Pacher Hof 2021 Grüner Veltiner), was followed by the lamb course (with Clos St Jean Cahors 2002); a roast loin with sweetbread dumpling, courgette, lamb belly, and a salad with pine nuts, and an anchovy dressing. Mum and I both agreed that we’d never tasted lamb cooked so beautifully, it melted in the mouth. Although there was an optional cheese course offered at this point, fearing we wouldn’t be able to fit dessert in (which would have been a disaster) we politely and strategically declined and moved on to the sweet stuff. At this point I have to give kudos to Ben’s chef de patisserie. Both the pre-dessert and dessert were not only works of art, but tasted every single bit as good as they looked. The light as air, fresh strawberry opener with ewe’s milk curd, strawberry sorbet and elderflower cleansed the palate ready for the cherry, almond and chocolate delice. Who knew this perfect pebble of chocolatey deliciousness would be so light? The dessert wine, a 2021 Mas Amiel Vintage Rouge with its nose expressing framboise, cherry and creme-de-cassis was the perfect complement. Not just a restaurant, The Pass is a gastronomic experience. There can be fewer ways finer to celebrate a truly special occasion whether it be pre- or post-wedding day. The Pass is open Wednesday to Sunday 6.30pm to 8.30pm (last seating 8.15pm). Book at www.exclusive.co.uk/ the-pass CHANGING OF THE GUARD The Grand Hotel, Eastbourne, is delighted to welcome James Perry as its new general manager. With more than 30 years’ experience in the hospitality industry, James brings a wealth of knowledge and expertise to the role. In 2000, he took on his first hotel management role as deputy general manager of Eastwood Hall in Nottingham, and spent the following eight years working in hotels across the Midlands. James relocated to Kent in 2008 to take on his first general manager position at the Canterbury Cathedral Lodge, before eventually joining Alexander Hotels in 2012, where he’s spent the past 12 years working as general manager at Rowhill Grange Hotel & Utopia Spa. Commenting on the appointment, Elite Hotels’ managing director, Graeme Bateman says, “It’s my pleasure to welcome James to the Elite Hotels collection. With his extensive knowledge and experience, we’re excited to see the innovative contributions he will bring to the The Grand Hotel. This appointment is particularly significant, representing the first change of general manager at the Hotel in more than 30 years, a notable rarity in today’s hospitality industry.” Find out more about hosting your big day at the iconic The Grand Hotel, Eastbourne, at www.grandeastbourne.com Scan to view video 10
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