An Essex Wedding - March/April 2024 (Issue 115)

by candlelight was accompanied by a glass of the country’s finest fare, an absolute joy for the taste buds, as well as a fascinating education on Italian wine production. And as far as I’m concerned, a trip to my favourite corner of Europe wouldn’t be complete without tiramisu for dessert. Happily, to round out the cellar dining experience, the chef served us this favourite, made to his mother’s well-guarded recipe. We couldn’t get it out of him, try as we might. The other gastro highlight here is L’Oliveto Bistrot situated in a charming renovated stone barn alongside the pool. Having enjoyed both lunch and dinner here during my stay, I can confidently tell you it’s not to be missed. With executive chef Stefano Ballarino at the helm the menu is a riot of fresh light flavours and colour. The Florentine fried coccoli were a total revelation. I was encouraged to try pappa al pomodoro too and despite it being something I’d never have chosen if left to my own devices, can say I’d be actively seeking it out when in Tuscany again. And the pizzas... chef’s kiss! Once you’ve tasted the incredible focaccia here you may well be left wondering how to recreate it at home. So, it’s with some impressive foresight that L’Oliveto Bistrot invites guests to don an apron and take part in a cooking class, delving deeper into the ingredients and techniques behind its world-class pizzas and focaccias. Lead by Chef Stefano, I had a whale of a time making my own dough and proudly enjoyed the fruits of my labour for lunch. “Everywhere you turn there’s an iconic treasure or historic landmark.” From various personalised experiences to relaxing in the Arno Spa or taking a dip in the sublime outdoor pool, there’s plenty to enjoy within the grounds of Villa La Massa itself. But should you manage to tear yourself away, and I highly recommend you do, at least for some of the time, there’s much to discover within a short drive. Day one I was giddy at the prospect of visiting Florence, a long-held dream of mine. I set off on a guided walking tour of the city having been dropped off in a convenient location by the hotel’s shuttle bus. This is the perfect introduction to Firenze, allowing you to get your bearings and compile a mental note of where to return for a deeper dive. With a keen interest in Renaissance art and having recently rewatched the TV series Medici on Netflix, I was in full fangirl mode! Everywhere you turn there’s an iconic treasure or historic landmark: Ponte Vecchio, Palazzo Pitti, Santa Maria Novella, Piazzale degli Uffizi, Ghiberti’s Gates of Paradise at St John’s Baptistry, and of course, Il Duomo. At times it’s overwhelming to think about the great footsteps you’re walking in. Along with these world-famous locations, I was also taken off the beaten track to secret spots known more to the locals (shhh don’t tell anyone). Officina Profumo-Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella (https://uk.smnovella.com), tucked away close to the church of the same name, is a perfumery with its roots traceable as far back as 1221. Founded as a Dominican friar’s convent, it’s renowned for its early role in the formulation of perfumes and remedies. Plus, gelato fans won’t want to miss Gelateria Santa Trinita (http://www.gelateriasantatrinita.it/en), a local favourite facing the Santa Trinita Bridge. Indeed, an ice cream pit stop will likely be most welcome in the scorching summer heat! When you’re ready for a break from the hustle and bustle of the city, do pay a visit to Estate Guicciardini Strozzi (www.guicciardinistrozzi.it/en). Fifteen of the Estate’s 530 hectares have been enclosed into protected natural truffle ground as some of the richest land for the valuable delicacy to grow with soil composed of sand and clay, along with a humid microclimate. Several experiences are available to book and I was off on a truffle-hunting expedition with one of the landowners herself, Princess Natalia Strozzi, direct descendent of the real Mona Lisa, Lisa Gherardini del Giocondo. Macchie (which translates as Spots) the incredibly clever truffle-hunting dog, whose mercy we were truly at, was on top form that day and we returned with an impressive haul of just over 133g of white truffle. The afternoon brought with it a fascinating tour of the Guicciardini Strozzi winery, which culminated in a totally indulgent truffle and wine tasting session. I fell in love with the Vin Santo and have been dreaming of it ever since, as I have all of my Tuscan adventures. FIND OUT MORE If culture, history, art, gastronomy, wine and the Italian dream speak to the two of you, Tuscany is your ultimate honeymoon hotspot. Via della Massa 24, Candeli 50012 Firenze www.villalamassa.com (+39) 055 626 11 info@villalamassa.it Florence Airport, Peretola (FLR) or Pisa International Airport (PSA) HONEYMOON REVIEW 91

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