Posted by Danielle Harvey on 17 October 2024
Whether you're a culture vulture, explorer or enthusiastic foodie, a dual-city Switzerland honeymoon has so much to offer. CWM deputy managing editor Kelly Andrews took a dual-centre trip to two of Switzerland's stunning cities, Lausanne and Basel, the perfect match. From arts and culture, a fascinating and varied history, to cheese and chocolate, Kelly discovers what the cities have in store for honeymooners.
WHAT TO EXPECT
Located on the northern shore of glistening Lake Geneva, Lausanne is Switzerland's fourth largest city. Home to IOC headquarters it's known as the Olympic Capital of the world. A city with a charm and character of its own, it was built on three hills earning it the affectionate moniker of the San Francisco of Europe. So, be sure to bag yourself a Lausanne Transport Card when you roll into town as this offers you free travel on the easy-to-navigate Metro system, which will get those less than keen on the climb from top to bottom in no time.
Having arrived via the über efficient Swiss rail network (or should I say "trés efficient," Lausanne being in the French-speaking region of Switzerland), my first port of call was Platforme 10 located alongside the city's main station. This new arts quarter, a one-of-a-kind in the country, is home to three internationally renowned museums: Vaud Museum of Fine Arts (MCBA), Vaud Museum of Photography (Photo Elysée) and Museum of Contemporary Design and Applied Arts (mudac). Regularly hosting collaborative exhibitions, the museums had been given over to a celebration of Surrealism at the time of my visit. So, do check out the website before you visit to see what there is to see while you're in town.
As well as a fascinating home of the arts, the area is also a vibrant neighbourhood with an esplanade boasting restaurants, terraces, book and gift shops, and arcades. Stop for a bite to eat at Le Nabi next to MCBA. With a menu that changes with the seasons its chefs serve up a variety of traditional cuisine.
The Lausanne Transport Card will take you as far as Epesses by train, a few miles east of the city in the Lavaux UNESCO region. I set off to explore Switzerland's reputable vineyards here and meet highly-regarded local organic winemaker Blaise Duboux (https://blaiseduboux.ch). A 17th generation father-toson winemaker, Blaise's family have owned the same five hectares of vines since 1453. Indeed, the history of viticulture in the wider region on the shores of Lake Geneva boasts a rich history dating back to the Roman period.
By and large, on the vineyards' steep slopes here you'll find the Chasselas grape variety growing in the finest quality soil unlike that found anywhere else on earth. I recommend leaving your Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc for your return home and opting for a local Chasselas whenever you dine. Trust me, there's a very good reason the Swiss primarily drink Swiss wine.
It's well worth spending a full day in Lavaux. I hopped off the train a couple of stops early in Cully to take a stroll through the romantic village. Make a pit stop at the Moratel Baths in Cully, or any one of the breathtaking public beaches you'll find along the way, to take a bracing dip in the clear waters of the Lake – Switzerland's most beautiful swimming pool. Then, head up to the vineyards, but do be prepared for a steep climb. When you make it to the top though, the effort will be well worth it when you're met with a glass of local Chasselas and lunch at Auberge du Vigneron, as I was.
What better way to get to know any city than by its culinary highlights? Throw in a dash of history for good measure, and you've got a city tour I certainly wanted to involved in! I spent a few hours with my guide meandering through the streets of Lausanne, stopping regularly to pick up treats for our picnic basket. If you're a cheese fanatic like me, you may well hear angels singing when you happen across Macheret Fromage (https://macheretfromage. com)! Picnic basket full, we headed to Montbenon Esplanade, a park overlooking the Lake in the shadow of Palais de Justice de Montbenon, to enjoy the delicacies we'd collected. Happily, my beloved cheese platter collected from Macheret Fromage had survived the heat and every local morsel from sweet treats to wine was a dream.
A further culinary highlight for me was La Vaudaire located near International Olympic Committee's headquarters. From there, make your way down to the Lake where you'll find the restaurant. For cocktail fans, the Swiss Negroni made from local liquor is a must-try, and the menu is packed with signature dishes featuring the finest local, seasonal produce including super-fresh catch of the day.
WHERE TO STAY: Hôtel de la Paix (www.hoteldelapaix.net/en)
WHERE TO EAT: Le Nabi (https://mensa-ethica.ch/le-nabi) Auberge du Vigneron (www.aubergeduvigneron.ch) Sardine (https://sardinelausanne.ch)
DON'T MISS: Olympic Museum (https://olympics.com/museum)
WHAT TO EXPECT
Switzerland's oldest university city and home town of the legend that is Roger Federer, German-speaking Basel is located a twoand- a-half hour train ride to the north west of Lausanne. Located on the banks of the Rhine, the city boasts no fewer than 40 museums, the highest density of museums in the country. It's old town is a must-see featuring landmarks like the ornately decorated red sandstone town hall and the late Romanesque-Gothic cathedral. Get around with the BaselCard available free with every accommodation booking in Basel. The trams and buses are a dream of efficiency and are super-easy to navigate. If I can do it, anyone can!
A short bus ride from the city, Foundation Beyeler is the most popular art museum in Switzerland, considered one of the finest worldwide. Its founders Ernst and Hildy Beyeler had a clear vision: that it should be an open, active museum to inspire an appreciation for art in a wide audience. Among the works on display are those by the likes of Bacon, Cezanne, Degas, Lichtenstein, Matisse, Monet, Picasso, Rodin and so many more. At the time of my visit, for the first time in its 25-year history, the Foundation Beyeler and surrounding park was the scene of a fascinating experimental exhibition of contemporary art. Take a break from art appreciation with a spot of lunch at Beyeler Restaurant im Park, located in the rooms of the Villa Berower.
During the summer, Basel life bustles on the banks of the Rhine in Kleinbasel. So, why not do as the locals do and cool off with a swim in the River. There's none of the constant water-quality worries that blighted the Olympic Triathlon in Paris 2024, as the Rhine in Basel is perfectly safe. Grab yourself a Wickelfisch, a waterproof sack produced by the tourist board, pack it with your belongings and let yourself be carried by the gentle current through the picturesque landscape of the old town. It's a totally unique way to see the city and so... much... fun!
The Tinguely Museum is the best place to start your swim. Get off after the Mittlere Brücke and enjoy a drink in one of the Kleinbasler buvettes for an authentic Basel experience. For the history buffs among you, Basler Münster should prove a worthwhile visit. Probably Basel's most famous landmark, its red sandstone walls, colourful roof tiles and two towers mean it looms large in the city's landscape. Built between 1019 and 1500 in the Romantic and Gothic styles, the cathedral welcomes you to witness a fascinating tale of construction over a period of several centuries.
Switzerland's pedigree in chocolate can't be disputed and Basel had a key role to play in the history of the trade. Still an important part of the city's identity today, it would be remiss not to embrace it! Equally as obsessed with chocolate as I am cheese, I made a beeline for Confiserie Brändli (www.braendli-basel.ch/workshops) as soon as I arrived in town! A chocolate workshop here offers you the opportunity to give free rein to your creativity to mould and refine your very own chocolate bar. Lead by the lovely Nadine I gained an exclusive insight into a traditional chocolate maker, a local family business now in its third generation. I also had the opportunity to sample some of its creations and can confirm that Brändli's Kirschstengeli were a total revelation. The fact that I can't enjoy them every day is now a source of great sadness for me.
For more choccy treats, be sure to pop into Confiserie Schiesser (https://confiserieschiesser.ch), opposite the Town Hall in Martkplatz. One of the most traditional confectioners in Basel, Switzerland's oldest coffee house has been a family-run business since 1870 and is now in the hands of its fifth generation.
When it's time to dine, check out Basel's open-air cafes (buvettes) located on the Kleinbasel bank of the Rhine. Alternatively, I'd highly recommend my favourite eatery on Rebgasse, Volkshaus Basel. A French brasserie with a stunning courtyard garden adorned with plane trees, it offers a haven away from the hustle and bustle with a Mediterranean vibe. Plus, the truffle tortelloni is to die for!
WHERE TO STAY Pullman Basel Europe (www.pullman-basel-europe.com)
WHERE TO EAT Volkshaus Basel (www.volkshaus-basel.ch) Kunsthalle (www.restaurant-kunsthalle.ch) Krafft (www.krafftbasel.ch) Beyeler Restaurant im Park (https://restaurant.fondationbeyeler.ch/en)
DON'T MISS Historiches Museum Basel (www.hmb.ch)
