Posted by Melissa Cullen on 26 June 2024
Guest editor Beverley Byrne tells us why Calabria, Italy, is perfect for honeymoons.
Night has fallen when my taxi arrives outside Villa Paola. The first thing I notice, apart from the intoxicating scent of jasmine, is a Romanesque church complete with belltower. I’m wondering where the entrance to the hotel might be when a door beside the church opens. Ricardo, the hotel’s sharp suited manager, welcomes me into a cloister while explaining this was once a monastery built during the sixteenth century to honour St Francis, Calabria’s patron saint.
Those monks certainly chose a sensational location. Invited to enjoy a welcome cocktail on the terrace, I’m bewitched by a full moon casting a cone of light across the inky Tyrrhenian Sea. Along the coastline twinkling lamps illuminate the marina and the village of Tropea clinging to the clifftop. It looks heavenly and I see why it’s known as the Costa degli Dei (Coast of the Gods).
Below the main terrace, I explore gardens arranged across descending levels connected by stone staircases and secluded patios leading to an infinity pool. This also overlooks that beguiling vista which, by day I see includes the extensive market garden providing Villa Paola’s kitchens with organic produce.
The exhilarating menu at De’ Minimi, the hotel’s restaurant, is conjured by magician chefs who really know their onions. Talking of onions, Tropea is famous for a particularly sweet red skinned variety, guaranteed to make a star appearance on De’ Minimi’s menu. Featuring seasonal produce grown in the hotel gardens, each dish on my plant based tasting menu showcases humble vegetables transformed by ingenious cooking methods into works of art. Complemented by regional wines, each course is presented with elan by servers lovingly describing dishes like passionate parents listing a gifted child’s achievements. More than a restaurant, De’ Minimi is a theatrical gastronomic experience.
A stroll through streets lined with restaurants and shops selling artisanal souvenirs lead to Piazzetta del Canone (Little Piazza of the Canon). Below, Santa Maria dell’Isola, a white church set on a sandstone outcrop surrounded by emerald sea and pure white sand, is Italy’s version of St Michael’s Mount. In a region blessed with breathtaking views – mozzafiato, as they say in Italian – this is perhaps the most photogenic.
‘Welcome to Capovaticano,’ states the card in my room, ‘Where relaxation reigns.’ I can’t argue with that. My spacious balcony room is one of 123 overlooking either sea or tropical gardens. The décor is serene with furnishings in muted shades of peppermint and mocha reflecting Calabria’s coastal colours.
Whoever designed the hotel was no fan of straight lines. Architecturally curvaceous, even the enormous palm tree fringed saltwater swimming pool is invitingly voluptuous. While there are tennis courts and a Beach Club offering water sports fun and games, I’m content to lounge on a beach bed moored in blonde sand from where, on a clear day, I detect the outline of the Aeolian Islands and Stromboli on the horizon.
I'm delighted to discover my massage is taking place outside in a sea front gazebo. To the sound of waves breaking on the shore, the expert therapist soothes my muscles into submission. The experience is further enhanced by strawberries and sparkling wine served while the sun sinks below the horizon.
Like Villa Paola and family favourite Baia del Sole (offering child centred activities), Capovaticano's restaurants showcase Calabria's finest home grown produce. At breakfast, the scent of freshly baked bread and pastries merely hint at the vast display of tempting hot and cold sweets and savouries. Like my idea of the perfect Italian Mama, Capovaticano doesn't want guests to leave a table hungry. Virtually impossible with three restaurants including poolside Stromboli, Il Mantineo specialising in local cuisine or Stromboliccio serving refined dishes in romantic surroundings, all capitalising on views across the Coast of the Gods.
While navigating between pristine beaches and rocky coves, Michele keeps up a lively commentary. Circling the remains of Roman built Hercules Harbour, he relates ancient myths and legends connected to this coast before dropping anchor in a secluded bay. I slide into azure crystal waters to swim among iridescent blue fish Michele calls Occhiata. Meaning ‘glance’ and recognisable by large eyes, they’re not only beautiful but delicious; cue Michele serving tasty snacks and delicate sparkling wine. On the return voyage, we pass ‘Lovers Cave.’ Michele laughs, ‘as youngsters our parents warned, ‘you visit that cave with your girlfriend, next stop, the church.’
Beneath a vine laden arbour beside a garden where chickens peck among flowers and vegetables, I'm presented with countless homemade dishes comprising salamis and jams, chutneys and cheeses accompanied by fragrant Furchi wines. Nduja, Calabria's signature spicy spreadable pork, is new to me. 'Every family has their own recipe,' says Marco as I take second helpings complemented by onion salad and pecorino drizzled with orange blossom honey.
Only the week before, he tells me, the siblings presented a similar gastronomic event for guests attending a Villa Paola wedding. With the conversation turning to marriage, a beaming Marco reveals he's recently proposed to his fiancé. Proudly showing photographs featuring Marco kneeling and presenting a ring to his future bride, he asks, 'do you recognise the location?' I certainly do. Behind the joyful couple, there's no mistaking a radiant Capovaticano sunset painting the sky gold and pink. Conclusive proof that Calabria is the capital of romance.
Book it: Villa Paola offers rooms from £285 per night, based on two people sharing a double room on a B&B basis. www.villapaolatropea.it
Book it: Baia del Sole Resort offers rooms starting from £110 per night on B&B basis. www.baiadelsole.com
